Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2011(UTC)
Posts: 11
|
While waiting on new diffuser to arrive, I placed a screw driver in the old one to open the damper & the frig cooled to 32-35 degrees. Installed new diffuser and the damper will not open at all. The harness connection is different on the new diffuser. The old one connected to the bottom three pins but on the new one the middle pin is missing so I connected it to the top 3 pins. I checked for voltage on the harness from the control board and I have voltage only between the middle black wire and the top yellow wire. Is there something wrong with the wiring? Or is it a problem with the control board? I didn't think to replace the 2 thermistor wires. What should I plan on next?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: edburke  While waiting on new diffuser to arrive, I placed a screw driver in the old one to open the damper & the frig cooled to 32-35 degrees. Installed new diffuser and the damper will not open at all. The harness connection is different on the new diffuser. The old one connected to the bottom three pins but on the new one the middle pin is missing so I connected it to the top 3 pins. I checked for voltage on the harness from the control board and I have voltage only between the middle black wire and the top yellow wire. Is there something wrong with the wiring? Or is it a problem with the control board? I didn't think to replace the 2 thermistor wires. What should I plan on next? Ed, Is this the part you orderred Part number: AP3084126
I'm not aware of any wiring changes, like you described. You should check the thermistor resistance, disconnect it from the control and set it out in the kitchen for a few minutes, then check the resistance across the 2 wires, it should read 2.7K ohms at 77 degrees(room temp.)put the end in a glass of ice water and check for a resistance change. That will confirm if the part is working or not. Part number: AP3745265
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2011(UTC)
Posts: 11
|
Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Ed, Is this the part you ordered Part number: AP3084126
I'm not aware of any wiring changes, like you described. You should check the thermistor resistance, disconnect it from the control and set it out in the kitchen for a few minutes, then check the resistance across the 2 wires, it should read 2.7K ohms at 77 degrees(room temp.)put the end in a glass of ice water and check for a resistance change. That will confirm if the part is working or not. Part number: AP3745265
Yes accept the motor cover is white. They sent me WPL 2209751. On the old one the harness connection attached to the bottom 3 terminals. The top plug in on the old one was missing a prong. On the new one it's reversed...the bottom is missing a prong so I attached it to the top connection as I figured all 3 wires needed to be hooked up. I'll check that thermistor as you suggested. Thanks for responding
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: edburke Yes accept the motor cover is white. They sent me Whirlpool 2209751. On the old one the harness connection attached to the bottom 3 terminals. The top plug in on the old one was missing a prong. On the new one it's reversed...the bottom is missing a prong so I attached it to the top connection as I figured all 3 wires needed to be hooked up. I'll check that thermistor as you suggested. Thanks for responding Ed, We both have the wrong part number,for the diffuser, Part number: AP3046080
Thanks for the MPN, that's how I found the mistake. Order this diffuser, test the thermistor as you plan, and return the one you recieved. I think we'll be fine after that. :) :) :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2011(UTC)
Posts: 11
|
Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Ed, We both have the wrong part number,for the diffuser, Part number: AP3046080
Thanks for the MPN, that's how I found the mistake. Order this diffuser, test the thermistor as you plan, and return the one you recieved. I think we'll be fine after that. :) :) :) Replaced the diffuser with the one you said to order with a new thermistor. Diffuser still wouldn't open. Replaced the control board and diffuser still doesn't open. Looking at other threads I took note of problems with the defrost timer. I can not find one anywhere on this model. I removed the cover on the freezer coils and the bottom of the coils were slightly frosted. Only thing I found was the defrost sensor clipped on top of the coils. Didn't notice before but the outside edge of the refrigerator section where the gasket closes is really warm so that mean the frig section is stuck in defrost mode? The freezer is working just fine.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
Stick the diffuser thermistor in a glass of ice water for 5 minutes, should go up to 15 K Ohm, if much higher, replace it.
Also, measure the freezer temperature, should be below 5 degrees.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
|
Stick the diffuser thermistor in a glass of ice water with plenty of ice cubes in it for 5 minutes, should go up to 15 K Ohm, if much higher, replace it. When installed, verify it is connected to the diffuser plug.
Also, measure the freezer temperature, should be below 5 degrees.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: edburke Replaced the diffuser with the one you said to order with a new thermistor. Diffuser still wouldn't open. Replaced the control board and diffuser still doesn't open. Looking at other threads I took note of problems with the defrost timer. I can not find one anywhere on this model. I removed the cover on the freezer coils and the bottom of the coils were slightly frosted. Only thing I found was the defrost sensor clipped on top of the coils. Didn't notice before but the outside edge of the refrigerator section where the gasket closes is really warm so that mean the frig section is stuck in defrost mode? The freezer is working just fine. Ed, Your defrost timer, is a circuit in the control board, you don't have a timer. Did you do the test on the thermistor ? Put it in a glass of iced water then check for the 15,000 ohms resistance ? The refrigerator does not have a separate defrost cycle, what the warmth on the cabinet flange is, the "yoder" or post condenser loop, that is normal, you may want to check and clean the condenser coils, fan motor,generally clean the compressor compartment components in the back of the unit, inside the rear lower back panel. The sensor on the top of the coil, would be your defrost thermostat, but with the freezer working proper, I doubt if thats a problem. So, we're back to a bad thermistor,(not likely) or a failed circuit in the control board, or a loose connection in the wiring. Go with the control board at this point. we can return any parts, we don't need aftre you get up and running. Good Luck, :) :) :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2011(UTC)
Posts: 11
|
Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Ed,
Your defrost timer, is a circuit in the control board, you don't have a timer.
Did you do the test on the thermistor ?
Put it in a glass of iced water then check for the 15,000 ohms resistance ?
The refrigerator does not have a separate defrost cycle, what the warmth on the cabinet flange is, the "yoder" or post condenser loop, that is normal, you may want to check and clean the condenser coils, fan motor,generally clean the compressor compartment components in the back of the unit, inside the rear lower back panel.
The sensor on the top of the coil, would be your defrost thermostat, but with the freezer working proper, I doubt if thats a problem.
So, we're back to a bad thermistor,(not likely) or a failed circuit in the control board, or a loose connection in the wiring.
Go with the control board at this point. we can return any parts, we don't need aftre you get up and running.
Good Luck,
:) :) :) Thermistor at room temp is 2.72 ohms...only goes to 6.78 ohms in ice bath. The 2nd diffuser is built like the 1st one I ordered with the wire connector reversed. I don't think I'm getting any voltage to the diffuser. What voltage readings should I get on the connector from the harness? I blew out the Compressor compartment and coils already. Local supply store had the Bi-Metal defrost sensor which I replaced today. Defrosted the evaporator coils today (min frost along bottom rolls) and unclogged the drain hole. Freezer is at zero. Installed new water filter so I dumped out all the old ice this afternoon. It's already full of new ice. I have a new thermistor coming Monday morning. But sure would like to check the voltage coming to the diffuser.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: edburke Thermistor at room temp is 2.72 ohms...only goes to 6.78 ohms in ice bath. The 2nd diffuser is built like the 1st one I ordered with the wire connector reversed. I don't think I'm getting any voltage to the diffuser. What voltage readings should I get on the connector from the harness?
I blew out the Compressor compartment and coils already. Local supply store had the Bi-Metal defrost sensor which I replaced today. Defrosted the evaporator coils today (min frost along bottom rolls) and unclogged the drain hole. Freezer is at zero. Installed new water filter so I dumped out all the old ice this afternoon. It's already full of new ice. I have a new thermistor coming Monday morning. But sure would like to check the voltage coming to the diffuser. Ed, I don't hear anything wrong, so far, The thermistor is on point, room temp (77 dgrs) = 2.7 ohms. at 35 to 40 dgrs.=7.0 to 8.0 ohms. At the damper motor: at the pins on the motor you should read some resistance or a closed circuit between the pins where the Black and Orange/black wires attach to the motor(motor winding). at the wire harness connector, you should read 120 VAC, on the same wires. The Yellow/red wire is the damper motor switch, it recieves a signal from the control board/thermistor and has voltage, that runs the motor, until it opens or closes. Here's a short explanation of how the damper operates, I think it will help. Baffle Operation
The baffle assembly consists of a 120vac motor, a baffle door and a feedback switch. The switch provides a sensing circuit to the control to let it know the position of the baffle door. When the refrigerator thermistor senses a temperature above the customer setting, the motor runs to open the baffle door.
When the baffle door is fully open, the switch closes sending 120vac out pin 4 (Y/R wire) on the baffle door assembly to pin P1-1 on the control. When the control senses 120vac at P1-1, the motor stops with the door fully open.
When the refrigerator thermistor reaches the cutout temperature, the control energizes the baffle motor to close the door.
When the baffle is fully closed, the switch opens interrupting power to P1-1. This signals the control to stop the baffle motor with the door fully closed. Good Luck,
:) :) :)
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
