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gpedens  
#11 Posted : Monday, November 23, 2009 2:29:45 PM(UTC)
gpedens

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Darter look here for your parts view for your oven JVM1410BC001 Replacement parts for GE JVM1410BC001 | AppliancePartsPros.com . Look at item 58 the outside panel or cover you typically have to remove this to get to the electrical stuff such as switches, circuit board, transformer, etc. Sometimes the wiring diagram is taped to this panel or inside the rear cover item 83, or behind the grill item 70. Or might even be under the bottom cover or base item 20. That is if someone hasnt taken it. Sometimes it is inside an envelope. If its not there you can call GE at 800-626-2005 choose option 3. Have your model number, serial number, and date of manufacture handy. Look here for typical wiring diagram location http://www.geappliances.com/sea...st/infobase/10001188.htm and here for other ge appliance info http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/contact/ . GE will mail or email or fax you a copy of the wiring diagram if they still have it.
gpedens  
#12 Posted : Monday, November 23, 2009 2:43:21 PM(UTC)
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Dang I'm absent minded. Forgot to say it sounds like your door switch needs adjusting. That can be tricky as moving one can sometimes affect another. Also the switches usually need to be properly sequenced. When the door is opened or closed one switch may need to open or close before another or others. You may need a factory service manul for that info or take it to an aurthorized GE repair shop. Some times the wiring diagram will have adjustment instructions or partial instructions. That is what can get you in trouble. They may not tell you the proper sequence. Typically adjusting the door switch requires a microwave leakage test to Federal standards or with special calibrated test equipment.
gpedens  
#13 Posted : Monday, November 23, 2009 7:53:04 PM(UTC)
gpedens

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Darter, nother somthing i remembered. Slamming the door shut and opening it while the oven is cooking streses them little switches and wears them out quicker. Slamming (rather than pushing) the door shut will wear out or break the nibs on the door that actuate the switch operating mechanism. Opening the door while the oven is still cooking lets the switch break a much higher current of 10 to 15 amps versus 1 or 2 for the light and control.
gpedens  
#14 Posted : Monday, November 23, 2009 8:06:01 PM(UTC)
gpedens

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Darter, it just dawned on me, is your microwave one of the space saver or hang up type? If so your wiring diagram may be under it. Take your microwave down then look at the mounting plate. It may be taped to it or you may have to take the mounting plate down to find the diagram. Item 83 on the parts list says mounting plate w/manual.
gpedens  
#15 Posted : Monday, November 23, 2009 8:20:08 PM(UTC)
gpedens

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Darter look here for your install instructions http://products.geapplia...F&Name=003675895.PDF . your oven is the hangie down type above the range and vented too boot. On those kinds the loud fan can come on independant of microwave use. If you are using the stove or range the heat from cooking can turn on the loud vent fan even if not using your mickey wave. here is your operation manual. http://products.geapplia...&Name=49-40366-1.pdf.
gpedens  
#16 Posted : Thursday, November 26, 2009 5:38:33 PM(UTC)
gpedens

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Darter, GE sent me a copy of your wiring diag. Your middle switch should be closed with the door open and open with the door closed. Your top and bottom switches are open with door open and closed with door closed. Also it is as i thought on the loud fan or main vent fan. You can turn in on, or it can come on automatically depending on what you are doing on your stove. It has a thermostat that turns the fan on at 158F and off at 104F. Or you can manually turn it on and it will stay on even if the temp is below 104F.

On the diag, the bottom switch and middle switch show as having 3 terminals. That is what I was warning you about being careful to note how they were connected before you removed them. On the other hand they may actually have only 2 terminals as the diagram covers several models. In fact the diag they sent says JVM1420. I asked them to confirm it is the correct one or send the one for the 1410 model. they said 1420 was same as 1410.
darter  
#17 Posted : Tuesday, December 1, 2009 11:55:45 AM(UTC)
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Problem resolved: The lowest of the three door switches was stuck in one position so I put in a new switch and now everything works properly. Thanks for the help.
Cheers.
gpedens  
#18 Posted : Thursday, December 3, 2009 4:33:17 AM(UTC)
gpedens

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glad to hear that. did you take the mw to a local shop and have them check the leakage? If you have friends or kin that have pace makers or defibs I would beg you to have it checked for leakage. if you got the door adjustment off a little it could mean that defib or pace maker going nuts and your buddy pushing up dasies. Its probably a wee small chance but its your decision. you can buy one of them under $10 devices that do this but they are not calibrated per federal standards the repair shop would have. Typically they err on the good side but you dont know for sure.
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